Yesterday I was privileged to teach a class for the Black Sheep Weavers on the subject of Shibori. Because it was only one day I could only give a taste of the numerous different methods the Japanese have developed over the years to resist fabric prior to dyeing.
I divided the day into 4 traditional resist groups: binding, stitching, binding and clamping, and of course, pole wrapping. I could make a 3-5 day workshop out of any one of these groups so we had to keep a rather quick pace.
Binding:
Essentially this is pinching a bit of cloth and wrapping thread at the base. In Japan a skilled artisan can make thousands of these to create designs. I must admit that I do not have the patience to pursue this, but I do like making circles on the cloth by putting beans or marbles in the cloth and putting a rubber band at the base. Can't get the small designs, but these can look pretty nifty. I also like the variation of taking a bit of the cloth and pulling it through a ring until it is snug and then dyeing. I like to use pony beads or straws cut to about 1" in length. You can put lots of these on a yard of fabric pretty quickly. This is a variation of a Japanese technique that used bamboo rings to create a resist.
Stitching:
One of my favorite techniques. I really like pole wrapping, but when I am doing the hand stitching there is a zen like rhythm to the process. For most of the stitching techniques all you basically use is a simple running stitch. Making rows of running stitches creates the mokume design- which translates to wood grain, a great description for the effect. There are also variations where you fold the fabric and then make a running stitch. Whatever method you choose, the fabric is scrunched on the thread prior to dyeing. This is what creates the resist design.
Fold and Clamp:
This method is one everyone has probably tried - either in art class at school or with some other group of friends. The fabric is folded in a certain way and clamped prior to dyeing. Many times only the edges of the fold are dipped into the dye creating lines on the fabric. Or a board in a smaller but similar shape to the folded fabric is clamped on top and the entire piece is dyed. Here is Jacqueline Gilbert admiring the piece she made using this method.
Pole Wrapping
This is the method many people think of when they think of shibori. Essentially, the fabric is wrapped around a PVC pipe, thread is wrapped around the cloth and the cloth is scrunched on the pipe to form a resist. I then have people soak the pipe in soda ash solution, apply as many colors of dye they want, and wrap plastic around the entire piece to let it set overnight. This insures a better dye set, but it is the most frustrating! I can not see what everyone has done! Hopefully, some of them will share their pieces with me at meetings we both attend, because as a teacher that is one of the best parts - to see what others have done and to have them happy with the process.
The pace of the day was quick, but everyone got to go home with some great samples and a pole wrapped silk scarf. Many people said they were glad that the class covered all the different methods as there were some gaps in their understanding of shibori that they can now understand.
Overall it was an exhausting, but terrific day!
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